If you’ve been loving cica for its calming effects, azelaic acid could be your next favorite. This versatile ingredient not only soothes skin but also tackles three common concerns: breakouts, post-acne marks, and uneven pigmentation. It’s gentle enough for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, making it a true multitasker.

In recent years, azelaic acid has been gaining a lot of attention in Korean skincare, and for good reason. K-beauty is famous for combining gentle yet effective ingredients, and azelaic acid fits perfectly into that philosophy. Many popular Korean serums and creams now feature azelaic acid to target blemishes, redness, and uneven skin tone—all while keeping skin calm and hydrated. Its versatility is why it’s becoming one of the most sought-after trending skincare ingredients.

In this article, we will explore what makes azelaic acid such a beloved skincare ingredient, explain how it can improve your skin, highlight who can benefit most, show how to incorporate it safely into your routine, and introduce some top Korean skincare products to try.

Table of Contents:

What is Azelaic Acid?

Benefits of Azelaic Acid

Who Should Use Azelaic Acid

How to Use Azelaic Acid

Top Korean Azelaic Acid Products to Try

A Quick Takeaway

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a gentle, skin-friendly dicarboxylic acid naturally found in grains like wheat, barley, and rye. In skincare, the lab-made version is most commonly used because it’s more stable and effective, making it perfect for everyday routines.

Unlike chemical exfoliants such as AHAs and BHAs, azelaic acid doesn’t simply strip away dead skin cells. Instead, it helps regulate the renewal process in the top layers of your skin, preventing dead cells from piling up while keeping your skin smooth and balanced. This unique mechanism makes it a versatile ingredient for reducing blemishes, calming redness, and evening out pigmentation, without the irritation that can sometimes come with other acids.

There’s also a promising derivative called Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD). PAD combines azelaic acid with glycine, making it easier to formulate into lightweight, fast-absorbing textures. If you love thin serums or enjoy layering multiple products, PAD would be ideal. That said, I have to be honest, I’ve never actually come across a Korean skincare product containing PAD.

azalea cream — If you’re in Korea and looking for an azelaic acid cream at the pharmacy, this is the type of product you’ll usually find.

In Korea, azelaic acid itself is considered a medical ingredient, so it’s generally only available in pharmacies. Outside Korea, however, many Korean brands offer azelaic acid products that are easy to purchase. So even if PAD isn’t available locally, you can still enjoy the full benefits of azelaic acid in your routine.

Benefits of Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a true multitasker in skincare. Cosmetic versions for home use are available around 9–10%, delivering impressive results without the need for a prescription. So how exactly does it support healthy, happy skin?

Acne and Blackhead Reduction

Azelaic acid has antibacterial properties that target C. acnes, the bacteria that thrive in clogged pores and contribute to breakouts. Studies show that 20% azelaic acid can be as effective as 5% benzoyl peroxide, but with far less dryness or irritation. It also regulates keratinization (the process by which skin cells renew themselves) helping to prevent pore blockages and reducing the formation of blackheads and pimples. Its gentle nature makes it suitable even for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

In Short:

Targets C. acnes bacteria to reduce breakouts
Helps prevent clogged pores and blackheads
Regulates skin cell renewal for smoother skin

Redness and Rosacea Calm

Because breakouts are inherently inflammatory, calming the skin is key. Azelaic acid helps soothe irritated areas and visibly reduce redness. This makes it a valuable ally for rosacea-prone skin as well, providing consistent relief without aggressive side effects.

In Short:

Soothes irritated skin
Reduces visible redness
Supports sensitive or rosacea-prone skin

Hyperpigmentation and Brightening

Azelaic acid can also help fade dark spots, post-acne marks, and other forms of hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for melanin production, helping to prevent new discoloration while gradually evening out skin tone. Its brightening effect is often compared to prescription ingredients like hydroquinone, but it’s much gentler and suitable for long-term use.

In Short:

Helps fade dark spots and post-acne marks
Inhibits melanin production to prevent new pigmentation
Gradually evens out skin tone
Gentle alternative to stronger prescription ingredients

Texture Improvement

While not a classic exfoliant, azelaic acid gently supports skin renewal in the upper layers, helping to refine texture and smooth the surface. Over time, consistent use can reduce clogged pores, bumps, and unevenness, leaving skin healthier and more radiant.

Even at lower concentrations found in cosmetic products, azelaic acid delivers these benefits, making it a valuable ingredient for a wide range of skin concerns.

In Short:

Supports skin renewal in the upper layers
Refines texture and smooths skin surface
Reduces clogged pores, bumps, and unevenness

Who Should Use Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a gentle multitasker that works for a wide range of skin types. Whether your main concern is breakouts, uneven tone, or redness, this ingredient can help improve your skin without being harsh.

Here’s a quick guide to see if azelaic acid is right for you:

Oily or acne-prone skin: Helps unclog pores, reduce blackheads, and keep blemishes under control. A great option if you want clearer skin without irritation.
Post-acne marks and uneven pigmentation: Gently evens out skin tone, helping fade dark spots and smooth texture.
Sensitive or redness-prone skin: Calms irritation and can even benefit rosacea or mild eczema. Perfect if you need something effective yet gentle.

A Few Tips for Sensitive or Reactive Skin

Introduce azelaic acid slowly if your skin is very reactive. Start with every other day and see how your skin responds.
Be cautious if you’re already using strong exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs. Layering slowly can prevent irritation and help your skin adjust.

Safe for Most People

The best part? Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated and safe for most people, including during pregnancy. You can target breakouts, dark spots, and redness without worrying about harsh effects.

How to Use Azelaic Acid

Choosing the right azelaic acid product and fitting it into your routine doesn’t have to be complicated. Think about two things first: how your skin is doing and what kind of texture you enjoy.

Start gentle if needed: If you have sensitive, rosacea-prone, or acne-prone skin, you don’t need prescription-strength azelaic acid right away. Give milder formulations time to work and your skin will thank you.
Texture matters: Lightweight serums, lotions, or creams all work, choose what feels good on your skin. PAD derivatives are perfect for ultra-light, fast-absorbing textures, though you won’t find them much in Korean products.

Where Azelaic Acid Fits in Your Routine

Azelaic acid plays nicely with most other skincare ingredients. Apply it after cleansing and toning, either on its own or mixed into a serum or moisturizer. A pea-sized amount is enough for your whole face, or you can spot-treat areas prone to dark spots, redness, or blemishes.

Morning or evening: It’s gentle enough to use once or twice a day.
Layering order: Start with lighter, watery textures first, then move to thicker creams. Always finish your daytime routine with SPF 30+.

Can You Combine Azelaic Acid With Other Ingredients?

Absolutely! Here’s a practical guide:

Salicylic Acid (BHA): Works well together. Azelaic acid calms and evens tone on the surface, while salicylic acid clears pores. Great for bumps, redness, and acne-prone skin.
Glycolic Acid (AHA): Yes, they can be combined. Azelaic acid handles uneven tone and sensitivity, while glycolic acid supports gentle renewal. Together, they tackle multiple skin concerns.
Vitamin C: Perfect combo. Vitamin C brightens and fights free radicals, while azelaic acid targets dark spots and redness. Just remember SPF during the day.
Retinol or Tretinoin: Can be used together safely. If your skin is sensitive, alternate morning/evening applications or look for a product that combines both.
Benzoyl Peroxide: Safe to layer. Studies show combining it with azelaic acid can even improve results for breakouts.
Niacinamide: Two calming ingredients that work beautifully together. Helps with redness, bumps, and dark spots, especially for oily, sensitive skin.

Top Korean Azelaic Acid Products to Try

So now that you know what azelaic acid can do and how to integrate it into you routine, let’s talk about finding a product that actually works for your skin. I’ve picked a few favorites to give you an idea of what’s out there and how each one might work for different skin types and needs. Think of it as a friendly starting point, you can find the one that feels just right for you.

1. Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

This lightweight, soothing serum features 10% azelaic acid to target acne and support healthy skin renewal, while also calming and hydrating your skin.

Key benefits:

Keeps breakouts under control: 10% azelaic acid targets acne-causing bacteria and helps regulate skin cell turnover
Calms redness and irritation: Dipotassium glycyrrhizate and multiple cica extracts soothe sensitive or inflamed skin
Hydrates without heaviness: Sodium hyaluronate provides moisture and plumpness without making skin greasy
Oil-control and blemish support: Zinc PCA helps regulate sebum and reduce clogged pores
Gentle and clean: Free of harsh ingredients and artificial fragrances, safe even for sensitive skin
Texture: Lightweight gel-like serum absorbs quickly, perfect for layering in your routine

Best for: Oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin that needs a gentle but effective serum

2. NINELESS A-Control 10% Azelaic Acid Serum

This silky, lightweight serum combines 10% azelaic acid with niacinamide and soothing ingredients to target post-acne marks, even out skin tone, and calm irritation.

Key benefits:

Fades dark spots and evens skin tone: 10% azelaic acid works on post-acne marks and brown spots
Minimizes pores and refines texture: 20,000ppm Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) helps regulate sebum and supports overall skin health
Soothes irritation: 9,800ppm Snail secretion filtrate, 10,00ppm Panthenol and Centella Asiatica extracts calm redness and support skin repair
Supports gentle renewal: Lactic acid provides mild exfoliation to enhance skin radiance without harsh effects
Texture: Lightweight, fluid serum absorbs easily, perfect for layering under moisturizers or makeup

Best for: Combination, oily, and acne-prone skin looking to reduce acne marks and calm sensitivity. I don’t recommended for very reactive skin due to bergamot leaf extract, which can increase photosensitivity.

3. Purito SEOUL Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum

This lightweight serum combines 10% azelaic acid with additional brightening and soothing actives to target post-acne marks, breakouts, and uneven tone.

Key benefits:

Reduces blemishes: Helps fight acne-causing bacteria and gently regulates skin cell turnover with 10% azelaic acid, keeping pores clear and preventing new breakouts
Brightens post-acne marks: Gradually lightens dark spots and evens skin tone thanks to 0.1% kojic acid inhibiting tyrosinase
Controls sebum and helps prevent breakouts: 10% Tea tree leaf water and tea tree oil help manage excess oil and reduce pore congestion
Calms irritation and redness: Bisabolol and malachite extract soothe skin and reduce visible redness
Texture: Slightly gel-like, lightweight but with a bit of body, absorbs easily without greasiness.

Best for: Acne-prone skin looking to reduce post-acne marks and calm irritation. Very oily skin can use just a few drops, as the sunflower seed oil may feel slightly heavy.

Note: Because this serum doesn’t contain strong humectants, it works best when layered with a moisturizer or serum that has hyaluronic acid or beta-glucan for added hydration. Not recommended for very reactive skin due to high concentration of tea tree oil.

4. TIRTIR Azelaic Acid 12% Serum

This serum delivers a strong 12% azelaic acid concentration alongside calming and sebum-regulating ingredients, making it particularly effective for oily, acne-prone skin.

Key benefits:

Reduces blemishes and supports skin renewal: 12% azelaic acid targets acne-causing bacteria while gently regulating skin cell turnover
Controls excess oil: Zinc PCA helps balance sebum production, reducing shine and preventing clogged pores
Soothes irritation and redness: Panthenol and Chondrus Crispus extract calm inflamed skin and support repair
Hydrates skin: Hyaluronic acid attracts and retains moisture, helping to prevent dryness
Supports skin barrier: Ceramide NP and hydrogenated lecithin strengthen the skin’s protective barrier
Texture: Lightweight gel-ampoule that absorbs quickly, though slightly tacky at first

Best for: Oily and acne-prone skin. Excellent for calming red marks and controlling sebum. It also provides a light moisturizing effect on its own thanks to its humectant content, but you can easily layer it with additional humectants or a moisturizer for optimal hydration.

Note: For extremely sensitive skin, this serum is generally safe since it contains no strong essential oils or fragrances, but the higher 12% azelaic acid concentration means it’s best to introduce it gradually to avoid irritation.

5. Medicube Azelaic Acid Niacinamide Clear Toner

This gentle toner contains 4% azelaic acid to help control excess sebum, soothe irritation, and support a clearer, more balanced complexion.

Key benefits:

Reduces blemishes and supports skin renewal: 4% azelaic acid helps regulate skin cell turnover and minimizing new breakouts
Balances complexion: Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) helps even skin tone and maintain a healthy-looking complexion
Hydrates and calms: Hyaluronic acid and Aloe Vera Leaf Extract provide moisture and soothe irritation
Strengthens the skin barrier: Ceramides and multiple cica extracts help reinforce the skin’s protective layer
Texture: Lightweight, watery toner that absorbs easily and layers well under serums or moisturizers

Best for: All skin types looking for clearer, balanced skin. Very sensitive skin should patch test first due to many citrus extracts, despite being fragrance-free and gentle.

6. Dr. Ceuracle Azelaic 10 & Madeca Ampoule

This treatment ampoule combines 10% azelaic acid with madecassoside. It’s formulated to help calm redness, regulate sebum, and gently exfoliate, leaving skin refreshed and balanced.

Key benefits:

Reduces blemishes and supports skin renewal: 10% azelaic acid helps unclog pores, reduce breakouts, and regulate skin cell turnover
Calms redness and irritation: Madecassoside soothes sensitive or rosacea-prone areas
Texture: Lightweight ampoule that absorbs easily but benefits from layering with a hydrating serum or moisturizer afterward

Best for: Oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin, including rosacea. Since it’s more like a treatment ampoule, extra hydration afterward is recommended.

There are many other azelaic acid products out there, but I always emphasize the importance of transparency, choosing skincare with clearly stated concentrations and ingredients. That’s why I’ve only included products where the azelaic acid percentage is confirmed, so you know exactly what you’re putting on your skin.

A Quick Takeaway

Azelaic acid is a gentle, multitasking ingredient that can help calm redness, reduce blemishes, and even out your skin tone. It works well for many skin types, from oily and acne-prone to sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, making it a reliable addition to your routine.

For more guidance and tips, you can explore my other skincare blogs for insights on building an effective routine, and if you want a routine tailored specifically to you, my personalized skincare service can help create a plan based on your skin type, concerns, and goals.