Dark Spots, PIH, or Melasma? How to Treat Each with the Right Ingredients
Dark spots and uneven skin tone can appear for many reasons, and no two are exactly the same. Some develop after a pimple or minor skin injury, referred to as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), others from prolonged sun exposure, and melasma often emerges with hormonal changes. Each type has its own underlying cause, and knowing the cause is essential to choosing the right treatment.
Korean skincare for hyperpigmentation focuses on routines and products designed to gradually fade pigmentation while supporting overall skin health. By identifying whether your spots are sun spots, age spots, or PIH, you can select treatments and build a routine that restores a more even, radiant complexion.
In This Article:
What Is Hyperpigmentation?
Types and Causes of Hyperpigmentation
How Skin Tone Affects Hyperpigmentation
How to Treat and Prevent Hyperpigmentation
Best Products for Different Types of Hyperpigmentation
When to Seek Professional Help
Final Tips
What Is Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation occurs when your skin produces more melanin than usual, leading to dark spots, uneven skin tone, or patches that are visibly darker than the surrounding skin. Melanin is the pigment responsible for the color of your skin, hair, and eyes, and it’s produced by specialized cells called melanocytes. This process is regulated by an enzyme called tyrosinase, which essentially acts as the “on/off switch” for melanin production.
Melanin plays a crucial role in protecting your skin. By absorbing harmful UV rays, it shields your skin from sunburn and the long-term damage caused by UV exposure — including pigmentation spots and photoaging. That’s why people with darker skin tones tend to burn less easily and may develop sun-induced hyperpigmentation less visibly, though everyone is still affected to some degree.
Under normal circumstances, melanin production is balanced. However, certain factors can disrupt this process and lead to excess pigmentation:
Frequent sun exposure without adequate protection.
Skin trauma or inflammation, such as acne, cuts, burns, or rashes.
Hormonal fluctuations, for example during pregnancy or when taking birth control pills.
These triggers can cause melanocytes to produce more melanin than needed, leading to visible dark spots and uneven skin tone.
Once melanocytes create this extra pigment, it is packaged into tiny sacs called melanosomes, which travel to the surface of your skin. When these melanosomes cluster together, they become visible as dark spots, patches, or pigmentation on your face and body. Understanding this process is the first step toward effective hyperpigmentation treatment and building a skincare routine that restores an even, radiant complexion.
Types and Causes of Hyperpigmentation
Understanding the type of pigmentation you have is essential for setting realistic expectations and choosing the most effective treatment. Dark spots and uneven skin tone generally fall into three main categories:
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
PIH typically appears on darker skin tones after an inflammatory skin condition, such as acne, eczema, or injury. On lighter skin, the same inflammation often leaves reddish or pink marks known as Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE).
PIH can fade naturally once the inflammation resolves, but targeted hyperpigmentation treatment can accelerate results.
PIE tends to fade on its own over time, and there are fewer effective home treatments, so patience is key.
Picking or irritating the area can worsen both PIH and PIE, so gentle care is essential.
Sun Spots / Age Spots (Lentigines)
Sun-induced dark spots, also called age spots or solar lentigines, develop slowly over years of UV exposure. They commonly appear on the face, hands, and chest — areas frequently exposed to the sun.
Prevention is crucial: Daily sun protection can help prevent new spots from forming.
Treatment: Existing spots can be lightened gradually with consistent care, though they are rarely removed completely with home methods alone.
Melasma
Melasma, sometimes called the “mask of pregnancy,” is a hormonal pigmentation that often affects medium to darker skin tones. It can appear as large patches on the forehead, upper lip, cheeks, and sometimes other areas exposed to heat or irritation. Common triggers include pregnancy, birth control pills, or hormonal fluctuations.
Persistence: Melasma may fade on its own, but it can also be stubborn and last for many years.
Treatment: Lighter, superficial melasma can respond to at-home hyperpigmentation routines, while deeper cases may require professional intervention.
Note on freckles: Freckles are genetic and typically appear early in life. They are not considered a problematic form of hyperpigmentation, but freckled skin is usually very UV-sensitive, making diligent sun protection especially important.
How Skin Tone Affects Hyperpigmentation
Earlier, we touched on how your skin tone can influence the type of hyperpigmentation you’re more prone to. Let’s take a closer look at why this happens and how understanding your skin type can guide treatment choices.
The Fitzpatrick scale is a classification system used to describe skin types based on their reaction to sun exposure. It ranges from Type I (very fair skin that burns easily) to Type VI (deeply pigmented skin that rarely burns). This scale helps explain why certain pigmentation patterns are more common in some skin tones than others.
Fitzpatrick Types I–II (fair skin): These skin tones tend to burn easily and often develop pink or red marks after inflammation — the so-called post-inflammatory erythema (PIE). While dark spots can still appear, the skin’s response is usually more visible as redness rather than brown pigmentation. Sun protection is especially critical, and gentle approaches are recommended to avoid irritation that could worsen PIE.
Fitzpatrick Types III–IV (medium skin): These skin tones tan more easily and may experience mild burning. They are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma. The skin’s tendency to produce extra melanin after inflammation or hormonal changes means that dark spots and patches can linger longer. Understanding this helps set realistic expectations for how quickly pigmentation fades and what strategies are most effective.
Fitzpatrick Types V–VI (deeply pigmented skin): These skin tones have high melanin content, which provides natural sun protection but also makes them more susceptible to PIH and sometimes deeper, dermal pigmentation. In these cases, pigment tends to be more stubborn and may require a careful, gradual approach to treatment. Avoiding irritation is essential, as even minor trauma can trigger new dark spots.
By recognizing your Fitzpatrick skin type, you gain valuable insight into the causes and patterns of your pigmentation, which is crucial for choosing the right hyperpigmentation treatments and setting realistic expectations for results.
How to Treat and Prevent Hyperpigmentation
Addressing pigmentation spots and uneven skin tone is most effective when you combine prevention, regulation, renewal, and support. Here’s a structured guide to help you understand what works and why.
1. Sun Protection: The Non-Negotiable First Step
No hyperpigmentation treatment can succeed without daily sun protection. UV exposure is the number-one factor influencing dark spots, melasma, and other pigmentation concerns.
Why it matters: UV rays trigger melanin overproduction, worsening existing spots and preventing new treatments from working. Even the most effective brightening serums and exfoliators are neutralized if your skin isn’t protected.
How to approach it: Find a sunscreen you enjoy applying every day, all year round. In winter, SPF 30 is sufficient, while summer calls for SPF 50. Mineral or hybrid Korean sunscreens are excellent choices, offering broad-spectrum protection without irritation.
For a deeper dive on choosing the right sunscreen and building a daily routine, check out my blog: Sunscreen 101: Complete Guide to Daily Sun Protection.
2. Accelerating the Fading of Existing Pigment: AHAs and Retinoids
The extra pigment in the upper layers of your skin can be sped up with ingredients that naturally accelerate skin renewal. This is especially effective for visible pigmentation left behind after inflammation, like post-acne spots.
AHAs, like glycolic acid or lactic acid: These at-home chemical exfoliants help remove pigmented cells from the skin surface, revealing a fresher, more even complexion.
Retinoids: Famous anti-aging molecules that also support skin cell turnover, helping pigment fade faster.
You can choose one approach or combine them for optimal results:
Daily retinol plus a weekly stronger AHA treatment
Daily gentle retinol plus daily mild AHA
It’s important to note: these ingredients primarily help remove existing pigment. They do not interfere with melanin production itself.
PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation) often responds very well to AHAs and/or retinoids alone, helping fade spots left by acne or inflammation. One of the advantages of AHAs, in particular, is that they can provide visible results relatively quickly, usually within 4–6 weeks of consistent use.
If you’re unsure how to incorporate a chemical exfoliant into your routine, which type to choose, or which retinoid and strength is right for you, my blogs can help guide you:
At-Home Chemical Exfoliants: Why AHA, BHA & PHA Are Must-Haves for Your Skin
Retinol Benefits Explained: How It Works, Anti-Aging Effects, and Myths Debunked
3. Inhibiting Pigment Production
Once the main causes (UV exposure and existing pigment accumulation) have been addressed, the next step is to use ingredients that can intervene in the melanin production process, helping to prevent new pigmentation. These ingredients generally fall into two major groups.
Tyrosinase Blockers
Tyrosinase is the well-known enzyme that regulates the activity of melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing pigment. Most pigmentation-targeting ingredients act as tyrosinase inhibitors, slowing down melanin synthesis. Here are some of the most effective and well-researched options:
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a true A-list ingredient in anti-aging skincare, offering multiple benefits for the skin and proving especially effective against pigmentation. Key points include:
Pigment Reduction: Helps fade existing dark spots and brightens overall skin tone.
Collagen Support: Stimulates collagen production, supporting the fight against fine lines and wrinkles.
Antioxidant Protection: Shields the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals.
Boosts Sunscreen Effectiveness: When applied under sunscreen in the morning, enhances UV protection, especially in formulations combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid, which work synergistically.
Anti-Inflammatory & Brightening: Soothes the skin while improving radiance.
While relatively tricky to formulate due to its sensitive nature, various stable derivatives are available today, many of which are also effective in fading pigment.
For more guidance on how to use Vitamin C and the best products to try, see my blog Vitamin C for Your Skin: What It Does, How to Use It, and the Best K-beauty Picks.
Azelaic Acid
Although less frequently discussed, azelaic acid is a highly versatile ingredient that targets pigmentation while supporting overall skin health. Key points include:
Tyrosinase Inhibition: Helps reduce pigment production by blocking the key enzyme involved in melanin synthesis.
Anti-Inflammatory & Antibacterial: Supports acne-prone and rosacea-affected skin by reducing inflammation and bacterial activity.
Ideal for PIH and Melasma: Particularly effective for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and hormonal pigmentation; less suitable for sun/age spots.
Due to its limited solubility, it is often found in heavier textures, though newer derivatives like Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) are water-soluble, allowing for lighter formulations.
Arbutin
A plant-derived brightening agent, widely used in East Asian skincare, arbutin inhibits tyrosinase activity rather than its synthesis, making it effective in combination with vitamin C. Some formulations even combine the two for added benefits.
Note for pregnancy: It is best to avoid arbutin during pregnancy and consult with a healthcare provider before using it. Arbutin, along with derivatives like alpha-arbutin, can break down into hydroquinone on the skin, which may be absorbed systemically and could have adverse effects on fetal development.
Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid is a synthetic but highly promising ingredient for pigmentation. It is often compared to hydroquinone (the gold standard for pigmentation) because of its effectiveness.
Helps calm the processes in the skin that make melanocytes overproduce pigment after UV exposure.
Prevents new brown spots and age-related pigmentation from forming.
Particularly effective for discoloration caused by sun damage or chronic pigmentation.
Gentle alternative to stronger bleaching agents, gradually evening out skin tone.
Kojic Acid
Kojic acid is a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor used in skincare to target pigmentation. It’s effective but can be potent, so it’s important to introduce it carefully.
Slows down melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity in the skin.
Helps fade existing dark spots, sun spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Can cause irritation in sensitive skin; start with lower concentrations (around 1–2%) and monitor tolerance.
Works well in combination with other brightening ingredients like vitamin C or niacinamide for enhanced results.
Licorice Root Extract and Other Botanicals (e.g., Bearberry, White Mulberry)
Several plant extracts are known for their pigment-fading effects, with licorice extract being the most studied and well-supported.
Contains glabridin, the active molecule responsible for its brightening effect.
Effectiveness is comparable to hydroquinone, which is banned in Europe and available only by prescription in the US, making it a natural alternative for fading pigmentation.
High-quality extracts are expensive, and the glabridin content in products can vary widely (from 4% up to 40%), so choosing a well-formulated product is essential.
Works gently on the skin to reduce visible dark spots and even out skin tone.
Next-Generation Pigmentation Peptides:
Peptides are relatively new but highly promising ingredients in anti-aging skincare. The term “peptide” refers to short chains of amino acids—the building blocks of proteins. Several amino acids together form a peptide, and many peptides combine to create proteins like collagen or elastin, which are essential for healthy skin.
Peptides such as Acetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine, Tetrapeptide-30, and Oligopeptide-68 can interfere with the pigmentation process in several ways simultaneously.
Some peptides directly hinder the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.
Certain peptides, like Oligopeptide-68, can modulate MITF, the gene controlling pigment formation.
They also help limit the movement of melanin to the upper layers of the skin, reducing visible dark spots and uneven tone.
As peptides support the skin’s structural proteins, they provide the dual benefit of reducing pigmentation while promoting overall skin health.
Melanin-Modulating Antioxidants
Glutathione
Glutathione is a naturally occurring antioxidant that can help lighten skin and improve overall tone by influencing melanin production.
Reduces the formation of eumelanin (the darker type of melanin) while promoting pheomelanin (the lighter type).
Supports antioxidant protection, helping to neutralize free radicals that can trigger pigmentation.
Generally gentle, but sensitive skin may react to higher concentrations.
4. Blocking Pigment Transport
After melanin is produced by melanocytes, it travels to the skin’s surface inside “melanin-carrying bubbles” called melanosomes. This upward movement can be slowed with certain ingredients.
A true superhero in skincare, offering multiple benefits for the skin:
Fades pigment spots when used daily in 2–5% concentrations, with noticeable improvement usually after 8 weeks (initial effects may be smaller).
Effect can be enhanced when combined with Acetyl Glucosamine.
Stimulates the skin’s own collagen production at 4–5% daily use, supporting the fight against wrinkles over 8–12 weeks.
Supports fatty acid synthesis at 2%, helping maintain ceramide and cholesterol balance and a healthy skin barrier.
Helps reduce enlarged pores and, at 4%, is also effective against breakouts.
New-generation pigment-fighting peptides
These relatively new and promising peptides can support multiple aspects of pigmentation control:
Inhibit tyrosinase activity, helping to reduce melanin production.
Slow down the upward transport of melanin in “melanin-carrying bubbles” (melanosomes) toward the skin surface.
Examples include Acetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine and Tetrapeptide-30, found in highly concentrated pigment-fighting serums.
Best Products for Different Types of Hyperpigmentation
When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation, the right products can make a real difference. From post-acne dark spots to stubborn melasma or uneven skin tone, carefully formulated ingredients like AHAs, retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide, and peptides help fade existing pigmentation and prevent new spots from forming.
In this section, I’ve selected some of the best K-beauty products that combine these potent ingredients for visible results. Each product has been chosen for its ability to target specific types of hyperpigmentation while supporting overall skin health and radiance. Whether you’re dealing with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), sun-induced age spots, or melasma, these products are designed to help you achieve a brighter, more even complexion.
1. Nineless Daily Chemical Exfoliants
These two serums from Nineless are daily chemical exfoliants that help accelerate the fading of existing pigment and improve skin texture.
a) Molecule-Clear 5% Glycolic Acid Serum
Contains 5% glycolic acid to exfoliate the upper skin layers and remove pigmented cells.
Supports smoother texture and brighter, more even skin tone.
Includes panthenol, betaine, and sodium hyaluronate to maintain hydration and minimize irritation.
b) Molecule-Clear 5% Lactic Acid Serum
Contains 5% lactic acid for gentle exfoliation and cell turnover.
Promotes even skin tone and surface renewal.
Enriched with peptides (Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) for firmness and elasticity.
Hydrating ingredients (trehalose, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate) reduce potential dryness or sensitivity.
Both are fragrance-free and suitable for daily use, making them practical options for at-home management of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.
2. Purito Seoul TXA 6 Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid Serum
This serum contains 6% tranexamic acid and 10% niacinamide, both targeting hyperpigmentation:
Tranexamic Acid 6%: Works by interfering with the overactive pathways that trigger melanin production after UV damage. It’s effective for age spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Niacinamide 10%: Reduces the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to the skin surface and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.
Other supportive ingredients:
Hydrators: Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Soothers: Centella Asiatica Extract, Bisabolol, Allantoin
Barrier and antioxidant support: Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Glutathione
Retinal (25 ppm): Mildly supports cell turnover
This serum is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be combined with other brightening or exfoliating products. It works particularly well for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
3. COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin 2% Discoloration Care Serum
This serum combines several ingredients that help lighten dark spots and even out skin tone.
Key active ingredients:
Alpha-Arbutin 2%: Helps reduce melanin formation, so it fades existing dark spots and prevents new ones from forming.
Tranexamic Acid 3%: Works on overactive pathways that trigger pigment production after UV exposure or inflammation.
Niacinamide 5%: Reduces the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to the skin surface and strengthens the skin barrier.
N-Acetyl Glucosamine 2%: Supports brightening and works well together with niacinamide.
Licorice Root Extract: Contains glabridin, which also helps inhibit pigment production.
Ferulic Acid: Provides antioxidant support and can enhance the brightening effect.
This serum is suitable for all skin types. It’s especially helpful if you have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne or other irritation.
4. Purito Seoul Azelaic Acid 10% + Tea Tree + Kojic Acid Serum
This serum combines azelaic acid, tea tree water, and kojic acid to address both breakouts and dark spots. It helps calm active blemishes while gradually fading post-acne marks and uneven pigmentation.
Azelaic Acid 10%: Reduces inflammation and helps fade spots left by acne.
Tea Tree Water 10%: Soothes irritated skin and supports recovery during breakouts.
Kojic Acid 1,000 ppm (0,1%): Slows pigment formation, aiding gradual brightening.
Niacinamide & Glutathione: Strengthen the skin barrier and improve overall skin tone.
It works particularly well for people struggling with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after breakouts, offering both calming and brightening effects.
5. Nineless B-Boost 1% Kojic Acid Serum
This is a potent brightening serum containing 1% kojic acid, 10% niacinamide, and 2% tranexamic acid. Because of its strength, it’s best introduced gradually into your routine, ideally in the evening. It targets dark spots and uneven tone while supporting hydration and skin health.
Kojic Acid 1%: Potent inhibitor of melanin production, helping to fade stubborn dark spots.
Niacinamide 10%: Reduces pigment transfer to the skin surface and supports barrier function.
Tranexamic Acid 2%: Helps calm pigment-producing pathways, particularly after inflammation.
Hydrators: Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate keep skin plump and moisturized.
Antioxidants & Soothers: Glutathione, Tocopherol, and plant extracts protect against oxidative stress.
This serum is especially beneficial for people with persistent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or chronic dark spots and melasma, but it should be introduced gradually due to its potency.
6. PURCELL 88B/mL L-Glutathione Flexible Liposome
This serum has a high concentration of glutathione (50,000 ppm) and also contains niacinamide and tranexamic acid. It’s designed to support a more even skin tone and help with persistent pigmentation issues, like melasma.
Glutathione helps reduce oxidative stress in the skin and can contribute to gradual brightening over time.
Niacinamide helps reduce pigment transfer and strengthens the skin barrier, making the serum easier to tolerate.
Tranexamic acid works on persistent spots and uneven tone, complementing the glutathione effect.
Hydration is built in, so it doesn’t dry out the skin despite the strong actives.
This serum is potent and works best for stubborn pigmentation or dull, tired-looking skin. Because it’s concentrated, it’s better introduced gradually and can be layered with other brightening ingredients if your skin tolerates it.
These are just a few examples—K-beauty is full of products focused on brightening and evening out skin tone, reflecting the longstanding emphasis on clear, radiant skin. With so many options available, it’s always important to prioritise transparency: check the ingredient lists, note the exact percentages of active ingredients, and choose products that clearly show what they contain so you know exactly what you’re putting on your skin.
When to Seek Professional Help
Realistic expectations and patience are essential when dealing with pigment spots. These spots are notoriously stubborn, and fading them requires consistent care over several months. Even if you follow the routine perfectly, noticeable improvement usually takes time—research often evaluates results after three months. The common expectation that results appear in four weeks does not apply to pigmentation, so patience and perseverance are crucial.
Age spots and melasma are unlikely to disappear completely with at-home treatments. While melasma may resolve on its own in some cases, most of the time it can only be gradually lightened. In contrast, milder sun damage and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) that appear at a younger age can often be fully addressed with careful home care.
If after three to four months of consistent treatment at home you are not satisfied with the results, it is time to seek professional help. Dermatologists have access to advanced tools, such as lasers, chemical peels, and other treatments, that can significantly accelerate pigment reduction. Professional evaluation is particularly important for darker skin tones to ensure that treatments are both safe and effective.
Final Tips
Here’s a little checklist to help you stay on track with fading pigment spots and keeping your skin healthy and radiant:
Vitamin C helps regulate pigment, it won’t bleach your skin.
Consistency is everything: daily use of targeted ingredients like AHA, retinol, niacinamide, or peptides makes a real difference.
Sunscreen is your best friend: protecting your skin from UV is key to preventing new spots.
Be patient with your skin: visible improvement often takes 8–12 weeks, so stick with it.
Don’t hesitate to seek professional guidance if needed—some spots respond better to dermatology treatments like peels or lasers.
If you’d like a routine designed just for you, my personalized skincare consultation gives you step-by-step guidance with the right products, tailored to your skin type and concerns.
You can also explore my other blogs for more tips, ingredient deep-dives, and routine ideas to help you feel confident in your skincare journey.
