At-Home Chemical Exfoliants: Why AHA, BHA & PHA Are Must-Haves for Your Skin
Every skincare routine can benefit from a good at-home chemical exfoliant—it’s honestly a game-changer. But why exactly should you consider adding one to your shelf?
Well, a carefully chosen AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid, like glycolic or lactic acid), PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid, like gluconolactone), or BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid, aka salicylic acid) can do amazing things for your skin. From smoothing fine lines to clearing stubborn breakouts, these acids tackle a wide range of concerns.
If you’ve ever wondered what at-home chemical exfoliants actually are, how they work, or which type is best for your skin—especially if you love Korean skincare routines—you’re in the right place. In this guide, we’ll break it all down, so you can exfoliate safely, effectively, and get that radiant, healthy glow we all want.
Table of Contents:
What Are Chemical Exfoliants and Why You Need Them
How Chemical Exfoliants Work on Your Skin
Instant & Long-Term Results You Can Expect
Different Types of Chemical Exfoliants: AHA, BHA, PHA
Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation – Do You Need Both?
How to Use Chemical Exfoliants Safely in Your Routine
Over-Exfoliation: Signs You’re Doing Too Much
Finding the Right Chemical Exfoliant for Your Skin
What Are Chemical Exfoliants and Why You Need Them
Your skin naturally renews itself every day, shedding millions of dead skin cells in the process. But sometimes this process slows down—whether due to sun damage, genetics, aging, or changes in your skin’s oil and moisture balance. When that happens, your skin needs a little extra help to stay healthy and radiant.
How can you tell your skin is asking for help? Common signs include dullness, dryness and flakiness, enlarged pores, breakouts, or an uneven texture. If any of these sound familiar, a carefully chosen at-home chemical exfoliant can make a real difference.
The main job of chemical exfoliants is to restore balance to your skin by speeding up and supporting its natural renewal process. Whether you want to tackle blackheads and acne, achieve a smoother complexion, or take preventative steps against fine lines and dark spots, chemical exfoliation is a powerful tool in your skincare routine—especially if you love Korean skincare approaches that focus on gentle, effective daily care.
How Chemical Exfoliants Work on Your Skin
Now that you know when and why to use a chemical exfoliant, you might be wondering: how exactly does it work on your skin?
The great news is that chemical exfoliants are gentle yet highly effective. They help speed up your skin’s natural renewal process, removing dead skin cells evenly and revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath.
Here’s how the main types work:
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) is oil-soluble, penetrating deep into pores to clear trapped dead skin cells and excess sebum, making it ideal for congested or acne-prone skin
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid) are water-soluble, gently removing surface dead cells and revealing a fresher, more radiant complexion
But the benefits don’t stop there! All three—AHA, BHA, and PHA—also support hydration, improve texture, and contribute to long-term skin health, helping your complexion look its best over time.
Instant & Long-Term Results You Can Expect
Before we explore the different types of chemical exfoliants, it’s important to understand what results you can expect. At-home chemical exfoliation delivers both immediate and long-term benefits for your skin.
Using AHA, PHA, or BHA exfoliants helps gently remove dead skin cells, supporting your skin’s natural renewal process. The short-term effect is instantly smoother, brighter, and more radiant skin—perfect for a healthy glow that makes your Korean skincare routine even more effective.
Over time, consistent use of chemical exfoliants can:
Stimulate collagen production for firmer, plumper skin
Reduce fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and sun spots
Clear clogged pores and minimize acne breakouts
Improve overall skin texture, radiance, and resilience
With the right at-home exfoliation products, your skin will not only feel softer and look more even but also become better prepared to absorb serums, moisturizers, and other steps in your K-beauty skincare routine.
Different Types of Chemical Exfoliants: AHA, BHA, PHA
Chemical exfoliants are your skin’s best friend when it comes to smoothing, brightening, and renewing your complexion. The three main types—AHA, BHA, and PHA—each have unique benefits, and understanding them helps you pick the perfect one for your skin:
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
Water-soluble acids that work on the surface of your skin, making them ideal for brightening and anti-aging:
Smooth fine lines and wrinkles
Fade dark spots and uneven skin tone
Boost hydration for better absorption of other products
Examples: glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid
Tip: Glycolic acid is a powerful anti-aging hero, lactic acid is gentler and super hydrating, and mandelic acid is great for acne-prone skin
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)
Oil-soluble, so it can penetrate deep into pores—perfect if you struggle with oily skin, blackheads, or breakouts:
Unclogs pores by dissolving trapped oil and dead skin
Reduces inflammation, calming irritated or sensitive skin
Helps prevent pimples and blackheads
Most common form: salicylic acid
PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids)
Gentle, next-generation AHAs that exfoliate slowly, making them perfect for sensitive skin:
Exfoliates without irritation
Hydrates and supports your skin barrier
Antioxidant properties protect against environmental stressors
Common examples: gluconolactone, lactobionic acid
Using the right type of chemical exfoliant can transform your skin, revealing a brighter, smoother, and more even complexion while helping your other skincare products work better.
Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation – Do You Need Both?
It’s true that physical exfoliation—what most people think of as scrubs—is still a popular way to remove dead skin cells. But that doesn’t mean it’s the only way, or that it’s always best. Traditional scrubs can sometimes be rough on the skin, removing only surface-level cells while leaving deeper, stubborn layers untouched. Some formulas, especially those with natural grains, can even cause tiny micro-tears in the skin if used too aggressively.
The good news? Korean “physical” exfoliants are a whole different story. Most of them aren’t really scrubs in the traditional sense—they’re more like peeling gels. They are extremely gentle, often using soft cellulose particles that glide over your skin without causing micro-injuries, leaving it smooth and refreshed.
That said, when you’re using a chemical exfoliant, you generally don’t need a physical scrub in the same routine. If you do want to add a physical step for extra pampering, make sure the formula is gentle and smooth, like the Korean peeling gels I’ll cover in detail in an upcoming blog post.
How to Use Chemical Exfoliants Safely in Your Routine
Using chemical exfoliants is all about your skin’s needs, type, and sensitivity. There’s no one-size-fits-all rule—everyone’s skin reacts differently. The best guideline? Always listen to your skin and adjust frequency and concentration based on how it responds, especially if you’re trying a higher-percentage product.
Here are some practical tips to get started:
BHA (1–2%): Apply once daily for normal or oily skin, maybe twice if your skin tolerates it. Sensitive skin? Every other day might be better. You can use it morning or evening—whatever suits your routine.
AHA (5%): Gentle AHAs can be used daily. Stronger 10–12% formulations? Stick to 1–3 times per week, depending on your skin’s tolerance.
Avoid delicate areas: The eyelid and under-eye area are too sensitive, but the outer eye contour can usually handle it.
Order in your routine: Always apply chemical exfoliants on clean skin, before serums and moisturizers. If you have a watery toner, the order can be flexible; for gel or lotion exfoliants, apply toner first.
Wait before the next step: Let your exfoliant absorb for 1–2 minutes, then continue with serums, eye cream, moisturizer, or makeup. Avoid layering very strong actives consecutively (e.g., 10% AHA + 1% retinol) unless your skin is used to it.
Sun protection is essential: AHAs can increase UV sensitivity, so daily sunscreen is a must—always!
How to build chemical exfoliants into your routine effectively:
Start slowly: Begin with lower concentrations and less frequent use, gradually increasing as your skin adapts.
Patch test: Test a small area (like the inner arm) to make sure your skin won’t react negatively.
Be consistent and patient: Results take time. Give your skin a few weeks to adjust, and stick to your routine for the best long-term benefits.
Important note about Korean chemical exfoliants
Korea strictly regulates the concentration of chemical exfoliants, especially salicylic acid. The Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS), clarified by the Korean Cosmetic Association (KCA) as of July/August 2024, sets maximum limits for over-the-counter products. This means that finding high-concentration chemical exfoliants in Korean skincare can be challenging, so most products are formulated to be gentle yet effective for daily use.
Over-Exfoliation: Signs You’re Doing Too Much
Chemical exfoliants are amazing for your skin—but using them too often can cause irritation. Your skin usually gives you clear signals when it’s had enough. Watch out for these signs:
Redness or inflammation – your skin looks flushed or feels warm
Visible peeling or flaking – noticeable shedding of the surface layer
Tightness or stinging – discomfort, especially after applying products
Breakouts or increased sensitivity – more pimples, irritation, or reactions than usual
If you notice any of these, it’s time to pause or reduce your exfoliation. Respecting your skin’s limits keeps it healthy, smooth, and radiant, while still letting the acids work effectively without causing harm.
Finding the Right Chemical Exfoliant for Your Skin
Now that you know what chemical exfoliants can do, it’s time to find the right one for your skin type and concerns. Not every exfoliant is right for every skin, so here’s a simple guide:
1. Dry or Sensitive Skin
Choose gentle AHAs or PHAs that exfoliate while keeping your skin hydrated and calm.
Look for formulas with added soothing ingredients like aloe, panthenol, or fermented extracts.
Try S.NATURE Aqua Oasis Panthe-Allan Calming Pad, a PHA-based exfoliating pad enriched with panthenol, allantoin, and multiple hyaluronic acids to gently smooth, hydrate, and calm dry, sensitive skin.
2. Oily or Acne-Prone Skin
BHA-based formulas work best to unclog pores and reduce breakouts.
Anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide or green tea extract are a bonus.
Try COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid, a gentle BHA treatment with betaine salicylate and willow bark water to clear pores, plus niacinamide and panthenol to calm and support oily, acne-prone skin.
3. Uneven Tone or Pigmentation
AHAs or PHAs with brightening effects help fade dark spots and even skin tone
Look for antioxidants like vitamin C or licorice root for extra brightening support
Try COSRX Refresh AHA/BHA Vitamin C Booster Serum, a brightening exfoliant with glycolic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C derivative to fade dark spots, while panthenol and allantoin soothe and hydrate uneven or pigmented skin
4. Anti-Aging & Texture Refinement
Higher-strength AHAs, sometimes combined with peptides, improve fine lines and skin texture
Hydrating ingredients help maintain elasticity while smoothing skin
Try APLB Mandelic Acid Retinol Ampoule Serum, an anti-aging formula with mandelic acid and retinol to refine texture and smooth fine lines, supported by centella, squalane, and hyaluronic acid to hydrate and maintain skin elasticity
5. Fun & Comfortable Textures
Water-based toners, lightweight gels, or lotion-type exfoliants make daily use easy
Choose textures you enjoy, because consistent use gives the best results
Takeaway
Chemical exfoliation can transform your skin when used thoughtfully—revealing a smoother, brighter, and more even complexion. By choosing the right type of exfoliant for your skin, you can target dryness, breakouts, uneven tone, or early signs of aging, all while supporting your skin’s natural renewal process. Remember: gentle, consistent care is key, and always pair your exfoliation with proper hydration and sun protection.
If you want to take your exfoliation game to the next level, check out my ebook Exfoliation Essentials. We dive deep into chemical, physical, and enzymatic exfoliants, explore how to integrate them into your routine safely, and I share lots of product recommendations to help you choose the perfect match for your skin. It’s everything you need to know to make exfoliation one of the most effective and enjoyable steps in your skincare routine.
